What are the stages of a stamped concrete restoration?
There are six stages, and they always happen in the same order: wash, repair, mask, first coat, second coat and, if chosen, a protective coat, followed by a final clean. Skipping or rushing any of them shows in the finished surface, so the order matters more than speed.
- Pressure washing of the whole surface, joints and edges included.
- Repair of cracks and small holes with acrylic filler or mortar.
- Masking of brick edging, walls, posts, gates and thresholds with masking tape.
- First coat of tinted acrylic resin, cut in by brush and rolled across the open areas.
- Second coat of the same resin to even out the colour.
- Optional final protective coat, then removal of tapes and a final clean.
The photos on this page come from one real job, our B set: a villa driveway in stamped concrete with a cobble pattern, a carport under a reed-roofed pergola and an open garage. We describe what the photos show and nothing more, so you can see the method rather than a sales story.
Even a surface-only job is a construction site while it lasts. Royal Decree 1627/1997 sets the minimum health and safety provisions for construction works, with or without a project, so the area is kept clear of residents, children and pets while machines run and coatings are open, and access routes are agreed with the owner before we begin.
Why does the job start with pressure washing?
Pressure washing comes first because any coating can only hold onto clean, sound material. Dirt, organic growth, loose particles and the remains of old, weak finishes all sit between the concrete and the new resin, and if they stay there the resin bonds to them instead of to the surface.
Under the pergola in our photos, one of the team works across the carport floor with a high-pressure washer while the machine stands to one side. The joints of the stamped pattern get the same attention as the flat areas, because that is where dirt and leaves collect. After washing, the surface has to dry properly before the next stage; how long that takes depends on the weather on the day.
Washing also reveals the true condition of the concrete. Cracks that were hidden by grime become visible, worn areas show up more clearly and any loose fragments come away. It is common for the list of repairs to grow a little at this point, and we tell the owner when it does.
Washing water and loosened dirt have to go somewhere, so we look at where the surface drains before starting. Gullies, the gap under a gate and the edge of a lawn all receive run-off, and planted beds beside the driveway may need a quick rinse afterwards. Neighbours sharing a boundary wall appreciate being told when the noisy part of the job will happen, especially in quiet urbanisations where many houses are holiday homes.
How are cracks and holes repaired before coating?
Cracks and small holes are filled with acrylic filler or repair mortar, pressed in with a spatula and levelled flush with the surrounding surface. The aim is a continuous, sound face for the resin, not an invisible repair at this stage; the coating that follows blends the filled lines into the finished colour.
In the driveway photos the filled cracks appear as lighter grey lines running across the darker, still-damp concrete, with a bucket of material nearby. Under the pergola, the repaired cracks and patched strips are visible before any colour is applied. This is the stage where the surface looks most uneven, which surprises owners who see it on a photo update.
Repair is limited to surface defects. If a crack is wide, stepped or keeps opening, the cause is usually underneath and filler alone will not hold. Those cases are explained in our guide on when restoration works and handled through concrete crack repair only once we are confident the slab is not moving.
Why is masking such an important step?
Masking protects everything that must not be coloured: brick edging, rendered walls, pillar bases, gates, door thresholds and planted beds. A tinted resin is designed to stay put, so a careless line on a white wall or a brick kerb is very hard to remove afterwards. Taping takes time, but it is what makes the edges look deliberate.
In our photo of the driveway leading towards the pergola, a long crack has been filled and a worker is running masking tape along the brick edging of the flower bed. Every boundary between the stamped concrete and something else gets the same treatment before the first drop of colour goes down.
Taping is also the moment to agree any boundary the owner wants changed. Some clients prefer the coating to stop short of an old threshold, others want it to run right into the garage or up to a gate rail. Deciding this before the tape goes on avoids a visible join later and means the finished edge follows a line the owner has actually chosen.
How are the two coats of tinted resin applied?
The tinted acrylic resin is applied in two coats. Edges, corners, the base of walls and the area around posts are cut in first by brush, then the open surface is rolled with a long-handled roller, working in manageable strips so that each section blends into the next while it is still workable.
Several photos show this clearly. Under the pergola, the back part is already dark while a strip in front is in progress, with a long-handled roller, an open tin of coating and a worker brushing along the foot of the wall. In one corner the coating has gone on in strips following the filled joints, and a close-up beside a pergola post shows a coated band next to still-untreated, worn concrete.
The first coat is never the finished look. It covers the filled cracks, shows up any missed spots and gives the second coat an even base. The second coat then deepens and evens the colour across the whole area. The interval between coats follows the product data sheet and the conditions on the day, which is why we do not quote fixed times.
What happens at the end of the job?
Once the second coat is complete, the owner's choice of protective coat is applied if it was included in the quote. Then the masking tape is removed, the surroundings are cleaned and tools, containers and leftover materials leave the site. The surface should not be driven on until it is ready, and we tell the owner when that is.
The before and after photos taken from the same viewpoint show the change: the faded, patchy cobble pattern has become a uniform, glossy dark grey surface. The garage pair tells the same story, with the cleaned but worn apron and floor in one shot and the same garage, coated inside and out, in the other.
For a written breakdown of what each stage includes in a quote, see restoration cost on our pricing site. The full service is described under stamped concrete restoration and driveway restoration. If you would like to follow your own job in the same way, tell us and we will send photo updates at each of these stages.
Frequently asked questions
Why can't the coating go straight onto the old surface?
Because dirt, growth and loose particles sit between the concrete and the resin and stop it bonding properly. Pressure washing removes them and also exposes cracks that would otherwise be painted over and reappear later as lines in the new finish.
What is used to fill the cracks?
Acrylic filler or repair mortar, depending on the size and type of defect. It is pressed in with a spatula and levelled with the surface. The filled lines look lighter at first, then disappear under the two coats of tinted resin.
Why does my driveway look worse halfway through?
Between repair and the first coat the surface is at its most uneven: lighter filler lines, damp patches and taped edges. That is normal. The first coat unifies the area and the second coat brings the colour to its final depth.
Why do you use both a brush and a roller?
The brush reaches corners, wall bases, posts and the sides of steps where a roller cannot cut a clean line. The long-handled roller then covers the open surface evenly. Using both is what gives straight, tidy edges and a consistent field of colour.
Why are two coats necessary?
One coat rarely gives an even colour over old concrete, filled cracks and worn lanes. The first coat covers and reveals any misses, and the second evens out the shade across the whole surface, which is why the quote specifies tinted acrylic resin in two coats.
Is the final protective coat compulsory?
No, it is optional and listed separately in the quote. Owners choose it for surfaces with heavier use or where they want an extra top layer. We explain the options when we quote and you decide whether to include it.
Can the garage floor be coated at the same time as the driveway?
Yes. In our photo set the open garage was coated inside together with its apron, giving one continuous dark grey surface. The garage needs to be emptied and the threshold masked, and we agree access with you beforehand.
Will you send photos while the work is in progress?
Yes, if you are away we can send photo updates at the main stages, such as after washing, after crack repair and after each coat, so you can follow the job and see the condition of the surface before it is covered.
How long do I have to wait between coats?
It depends on the product data sheet and on the conditions on the day, such as temperature, shade and humidity. We follow the manufacturer's instructions rather than a fixed rule, and we tell you when the surface can be walked on and driven on.
What do I need to do before you start?
Clear cars, pots, furniture and anything stored on the surface, make sure we can access water, and tell us about irrigation that might wet the area. If the paving belongs to a community, the owners' meeting needs to have approved the work.